Category Archives: Trends

Models wear creation by French fashion designer Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent

Hedi, how hard are you laughing out loud?

Now that Francois Hollande‘s amour and Catherine Deneuve share the benches at your Saint Laurent shows with Jann Wenner‘s two hot boys Theo and Noah in their black and red leather pants (respectively) and bottle of champagne, alongside The Kills‘ lead singer Allison Mosshart, you qualify as the best front row in Paris Fashion Week. You also attract an enviable number of fellow designers who come to see you spin your magic: Azzedine Alaia was there to see your Fall 2014 collection tonight (and he’s more of a Commes Des Garcons guy) as were those two partiers Peter Dundas and Jean Paul Gaultier, who rocked along with the rest of us to an original song written and recorded for Saint Laurent by Clementine Creevy, who was so recently just a teenaged girl and is now with the ultra in-the-know LA band Cherry Glazerr.

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Anna Wintour laughed out loud rather than race pell mell out the door after the last model exited the runway, and your grinning boss Francois-Henri Pinault appeared obscenely happy. And why not? He hired you. You have made Saint Laurent as cool as it was when it was really Yves Saint Laurent — and with the same oeuvre.

Three limited-edition John Baldessari dresses? Genius. Steve Tisch will probably buy one of those sparkly mini sheaths and install it in the museum he’s building in his backyard in LA. Peacoats? Plaid schoolgirl skirts? Houndstooth capelets? Patent-leather Mary Janes? It’s London, 1969, and school’s out, Lola.

We’ve been seeing all those clothes for decades (just as people had seen the safari shirt and the tuxedo before Yves restyled them), but with your eye, they are fresh. You are the true definition of a creative director — the modern corporate title for a designer — sussing out the moment, setting the mood, designing new stores, alchemizing the advertising, leading the sheep to the boutique.

Your Saint Laurent look is the new look of Hollywood for men and women, the way Armani dressed Hollywood in the 1990s. (You dressed both the host of the Oscars last night — Ellen DeGeneres — and the best supporting actor — Jared Leto, though it’s a shame Leto failed to correctly identify your label to ABC).

You didn’t invent the skinny black leather moto jacket, but now you own it. And the babydoll dress, the floppy felt hippy hat, the Mary Jane, and pretty soon, the pea coat, the gogo boot, and the fur-lined army jacket.

So don’t you just want to thumb your nose at all the people who sniped and sniffed that dropping the “Yves” from Yves Saint Laurent was heresy and that your extravagantly priced floppy hats and skinny tuxedos would never sell?

You said it yourself, or rather Mr. Baldessari did, in your elegantly printed eBay collectible show notes: “The most successful seller does not sell. He creates in his prospect a desire to buy.”